The Metropolitan Museum of Art has cancelled its planned 2027 Costume Institute exhibition dedicated to John Galliano, following mounting criticism from Jewish leaders, donors and politicians over the designer’s antisemitic and racist remarks in 2011.
Titled John Galliano: Horizons, the exhibition had been scheduled to open in May 2027 and was expected to provide the theme for the annual Met Gala. The decision to cancel the exhibition was announced on August 31, 2026, following growing pressure surrounding Galliano’s controversial past.
The Legendary British couturier John Galliano was instrumental in reshaping the identities of both Givenchy and Dior, with his nearly 15-year tenure at Christian Dior becoming one of the defining chapters of contemporary fashion. His theatrical couture collections were extravagant, romantic, historically informed and technically extraordinary , which established him as one of the most celebrated designers of his generation.
But Galliano’s extraordinary creative legacy existed alongside a deeply troubling personal history.
In 2011, a video surfaced of the designer making antisemitic and racist remarks in a Paris café. The scandal resulted in his dismissal from Dior, a criminal conviction in France and several years away from the fashion spotlight. His career, once seemingly untouchable, had collapsed almost overnight.
Then came one of fashion’s most remarkable second acts.
In 2014, after several years away from the industry, Galliano was appointed Creative Director of Maison Margiela. His return was widely regarded as one of fashion’s most remarkable professional comebacks, allowing him to rebuild his reputation through a body of work that was once again celebrated for its conceptual ambition, craftsmanship and originality.
Now, more than a decade after his return, The Met Withdraws the John Galliano: Horizons Exhibition amid a backlash over the event.
In an announcement concerning the Spring 2027 Costume Institute exhibition, The Metropolitan Museum of Art confirmed that the project would not proceed.
Max Hollein, Director and CEO of The Met, said:
“Following thoughtful discussions with John Galliano, we have together decided not to proceed with the exhibition.”
Galliano said he believed it was ultimately best for the exhibition not to go forward, while expressing profound regret for the pain caused by his past words.
In a lengthy statement, the designer thanked The Met, as well as Max Hollein, Costume Institute curator Andrew Bolton and Anna Wintour for the honour of having his work considered by the institution.
Galliano also accepted responsibility for the hurt caused by his remarks, specifically acknowledging the pain experienced by Jewish and Asian communities. He stressed that accountability cannot be achieved through a museum exhibition, institutional recognition or a single public gesture, but instead requires an ongoing commitment to listening, learning and demonstrating change through one’s conduct.
The designer also expressed gratitude to those who have supported him throughout fifteen years of sobriety and recovery from alcoholism and addiction.
His decision, he said, was partly motivated by a desire not to place The Met in a difficult position or allow controversy surrounding his name to overshadow the work of the Costume Institute. He also acknowledged that an exhibition celebrating his career would understandably be painful for some.
Andrew Bolton, Curator in Charge of The Met’s Costume Institute, likewise acknowledged the complexity surrounding the proposed exhibition.
“I believe deeply in the responsibility of museums to examine difficult histories with rigor, candor, and care,” Bolton said, while recognising “the pain and concern this exhibition has caused.”
Following extensive discussions, Bolton said he supported the decision not to proceed and expressed gratitude to the exhibition’s advisors, lenders, collaborators and community leaders whose perspectives had informed the project.
The statement underscores the difficult position museums occupy when examining controversial cultural figures. A retrospective is, by its very nature, an act of institutional recognition. To place a designer at the centre of one of the fashion world’s most prestigious exhibitions is not simply to acknowledge his creative achievements; it is to frame his legacy within the broader cultural history of fashion.
Anna Wintour, Vogue’s Global Editorial Director and a trustee of The Met, also voiced her support for the cancellation.
Calling Galliano’s decision “very courageous,” Wintour said she believed it was the right decision and that both the designer and the museum had her full support.
Wintour’s involvement is particularly significant given the extraordinary cultural and fundraising influence of the Met Gala. As one of the event’s principal architects, her role extends beyond fashion editorial, she is instrumental in shaping the gala’s creative direction, guest list and broader cultural relevance.
For now, the future theme of the 2027 Met Gala remains undecided.
The Costume Institute has confirmed that details of a new 2027 exhibition and theme will be announced at a later date. A replacement has not yet been named.
Traditionally, the process begins with the Costume Institute and Andrew Bolton developing an exhibition concept that balances historical fashion significance with contemporary cultural relevance. The proposed theme is then considered and approved by The Met’s senior leadership, including Max Hollein.
From there, Anna Wintour’s influence remains pivotal. As a Met trustee and one of the central figures behind the gala, she has considerable influence over how an exhibition translates into an event capable of capturing the imagination of the fashion world and generating the extraordinary fundraising that has become synonymous with the Met Gala.
Whoever or whatever ultimately replaces John Galliano: Horizons will therefore face an unusual challenge. The new exhibition will not simply have to stand on its own merits; it will inevitably arrive in the shadow of one of the most contentious decisions in recent Met Gala history.
written by Kim Grahame
main photo: John Galliano fashion designer 2010, photographer Jacques Brinon / AP
